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TOPIC: Soft Washing House's
What do you use to Soft Wash [29 vote(s)]

Power Washer to down Stream
37.9%
Pump and a Tank to Soft Wash
62.1%
Blast away with a power washer
0.0%


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I'm sure Eric was joking.

For me...to each their own. I look at it as having options. Majority of the time we downstream. Just this past year on one particular extremely large project I had two machines (one on the truck and one on the trailer) running and downstreaming and another technician applying with a 12v and rinsing with a garden hose. We have used x-jetting as well. Bottom line..whatever works for you.

Hank



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Yea Hank,..I knew Eric was joking,...and I was just essentially making the point you just made,..whatever works for "you"

And I really don't care how people wash,..or if they do a good job,..doesn't matter to me,...but as I said,..I think these boards are for hard information first,..and personal choices and the reasoning behind it second. But then again,,that's just me and how I feel about these boards.

Jeff

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I am glad I was with Hank, and Brett this past weekend and was shown more about DS. I am confident we will find it is a good tool at times in the future. I look forward to becoming proficient with this process too.

As far as noise, I will never like excessive noise when doing anything. I like to be able to enjoy what I am doing. I elected to edit the post and removed the all caps hate comment. I do not want to foment negative dialogue.

I am probably way more sensitive to the damage noise does. I wear two hearing aids from a lifetime of noisy commercial environments. I have come to the conclusion for some people like myself, you may have a predisposition to hearing loss. I was also surprised at some men who had spent more time than me surrounded by high noise levels, but they did not "seem" to suffer as much damage. Maybe just my perception. The ongoing ringing in the ears hours after being around loud equipment tells me damage is being done.

So for what it is worth, don't take for granted the damage you do with excessive decibels for extended periods of time. If you are running pressure washers, love yourself and your family enough to wear hearing protection. (Jmho) The sound of your grand children's voices as they squeal the first time they hear birds chirp is worth the protection. I hear their squeals but not the chirping bird that causes the excitement.

The fact I have a 8gpm 3500 psi Water Dragon pressure washer on the truck makes it clear we understand where it fits in exterior cleaning. We do a lot of pressure washing too.
We use it everyday to pressure wash concrete, paver prep for coatings, rinsing houses, watering and rinsing plants, etc.

Just like my quiet times... So, when it fits our model, we shut the noise down on jobs.







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For the most part we down stream. Sometimes it might be easier to just use the 12V but my guess is we DS at about 90%. So many of the homes we do are built into a hill making them 2 1/2 to 3 stories high. The 12V system just cant get those easily.



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For the most part we down stream. Sometimes it might be easier to just use the 12V but my guess is we DS at about 90%. So many of the homes we do are built into a hill making them 2 1/2 to 3 stories high. The 12V system just can't get those easily.



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Brett Thompson

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I've got a philosophical question. :) Easy to see that there are several processes that achieve the same result (clean house). Question is which are we selling? The process, or the result? Or is it something else...like the relationship with the client? I would say that the client is "shopping" for a clean house...but what is it about the way we market & package our service causes them to pull our product off the shelf over someone else? If there are 30 guys in your town that can get a house clean (probably true for me)...why would someone choose you?

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Hey Bryan,..there is no doubt we are selling the end result,..process is mostly important to the ones doing it and who they argue with on these boards,Ha,Ha,..Customers are shopping for a service that will treat them fair and do a quality job,..this is where your reputation takes over,...they have little interest as a whole in the process,...as they likely haven't a clue anyhow.

If you're dealing with 30 business's in your service area,..and you all achieve the same damage free results,(no dead plants, windows screens left in tact,..etc..) I think it then comes down to personalized customer service,..doing the extras like cleaning a sidewalk or small shed at no cost to the customer,..they remember that. Heck I do that all the time for my own sake.....but the benefit is can separate you from the "other" guy.

It also takes time to build a clientele which will will keep you in business for a long time. If you're just starting out and have nothing else to go on,..with 30 other business's,..it will take time. PERIOD! It takes time if you're not dealing with that.

Showing up on time, doing actual evaluations,..and not Google Earthing a house or a roof.
Sitting down with people and having a coffee goes a long way,..especially with older people who live alone,....you show interest. And it allows them to actually "meet" you,.. And don't just talk about washing,..talk about other things. I've been to customers' houses many times for 2 hours or more,..And I'm not hardly competing with anyone,..I just like to sit and talk with them,..but,..I've learned over the years it goes a long way.

If you prefer to use an electric to wash with nothing wrong with that,..or if you prefer to use a PW,.nothing wrong with that neither,..but do it on how you find it most appealing,..rather that trying to sell something and sacrificing your own comfort level in the business to suit customers. If you're a real washer,.you'll be able to make money doing it how you choose. Customers as a whole are just not that aware of our tools and equipment. And,.they don't really care.

It's like the mechanic using Snap-On tools vs the guy using Harbor Freight tools,..the customer doesn't care as long as the end result is the same.

 

Customers that have had bad experiences with guys using PW'ers realize it was the operator,..not the machine. Even at that,..there are likely just as many bad experiences from "softwash" guys who killed plants using cleaners,..I doubt anyone here is going to stop using SH due to the incompetence of a few others. 


Jeff



-- Edited by Jeff Wible on Monday 16th of January 2017 05:09:10 PM

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Bryan,..If you wanna set yourself apart on procedure,..break out the brushes and Purple Power  and brush the whole house and remove all oxidation at the same cost or at least close to what you charge now,.. .and that'll set you apart. But,.most aren't willing to do that. Most are content with "Par" results,..not above "Par".   And,..this  will do a superior job,..and that's what will set you apart,..and the visual is excellent. Removing oxidation gives the new shine back. And if you sell it as that specifically,...the customer will "get it" Oxidized houses look dirtier and collect dirt more so than a slick clean house,.and that will also sell. 

And most who think they are doing an excellent job,..still aren't doing the best job if oxidation is left behind,..me included. Remove oxidation on every job that needs it,..and you will be above the rest,..in perception and most importantly,..work quality.  I just never mention my old methods anymore due to being lacks my self,...but,.it is the reality of it,..and very accomplishable.  Especially with the tools we have today.  

Brushing really gets peoples attention. If you would go look at 10 year old posts on TheGrimeScene.com you'd see that that's how we did it back then,..and could account for the great clientele we have to this day. But,..with that said,..I haven't lost anyone due to not entirely brushing,..but either way,..they were more thorough jobs than I can give today. I was gonna wear myself out scrubbing the oxidation off every house. Now I'm more content with a very nice job!! But not as thorough as years ago. Across these boards it is acceptable to leave the oxidation ,..and I agree,.removing oxidation is more of a restoration and should be charged accordingly.

But,.you was were asking how to set yourself apart,..and that will do it,..guaranteed,..and get you phone calls due to it! Because people see it during the whole job.

I remember someone asking the same thing back then,.how to make their service different from others,..and I told them about brushing,..And I remember one guy saying he got brushes out as props,..so the customer would at least see them, Ha,Ha,...

*Some guys do offer oxidation removal,..as an option,..and I do that now as well,..but I usually don't even mention it,..I don't want to do it anymore,Ha,Ha,....But,..If I were just starting and wanted an awesome name,...I'd do it all over again. 

 

**By the way,..I consider myself as doing excellent work,..so I'm not knocking anyone else who also considers themselves as that,..but,..brushing the entire house is superior to my current method.



Jeff



-- Edited by Jeff Wible on Monday 16th of January 2017 05:18:59 PM

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Here is the thread from then,.it was actually only about 8 years ago. Goes directly at what Bryan is asking. If you're interested,..that is.  As I said,..it will set the bar higher for other services around you.   Funny thing is,. we were doing it because it's how we did it,..not to sell,..BUT,.it did prove to be a big benefit in the perception department,..and is why I mentioned it to begin with at that time.   But,..it definitely does a better job,.not even questionable,..especially on darker oxidized siding.  We still go up ladders and open screens and detail the inside of the window sill. Not just blow through it,.unless they are fixed in place,..then we tell the customer to take them out if they want a more thorough job,..cause we can get to it with our Magic Erasers. This is the kind of stuff that sets you apart.  And,..we did these detailed house washes for 12+ years,..

Some window sills,..especially new customers will most likely need something like Purple Power to get them white as they can be,..but they will still usually at least need Magic Erasers.  Then the next time or two,..you may be able to just chemically clean them.  But the screen still need to be pushed up either way.  I see people talking about one guy soaping and one guy rinsing,...I always wonder if they go up the ladder to detail out the window sills or at least lift the screens.   Either way,..doesn't matter to me,..I am just explaining how to set yourself apart,..way apart from most in this business. 

Take some time on the job,..detail it out,..do extra things.  

And always run a brush over the windows.  

 

http://community.thegrimescene.com/topic/13011-an-option-for-those-struggling/#comment-131271

 

 Jeff



-- Edited by Jeff Wible on Tuesday 17th of January 2017 04:53:15 AM

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I fitted a down streaming ventura that allows me to use SH when doing concrete paths but the one I'm using doesn't draw enough SH to make a serious impact. I want to use the power washer to apply the SH instead of pulling off two hoses. Can anyone recommend a ventura that can be adjusted to draw enough SH to make a strong mix?

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Michael,..I am working on force feeding my injector with a 12V pump. That is supposed to really up the draw. Other than that,.go down a size or two on injector size for application ,..and remove or by-pass when you're ready to run surface cleaner or the wand. But,..direct application of bad concrete is always gonna be best. Just the way it is.

Jeff

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Thanks Jeff, force feeding might be the answer.

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Bryan P wrote:

I've got a philosophical question. :) Easy to see that there are several processes that achieve the same result (clean house). Question is which are we selling? The process, or the result? Or is it something else...like the relationship with the client? I would say that the client is "shopping" for a clean house...but what is it about the way we market & package our service causes them to pull our product off the shelf over someone else? If there are 30 guys in your town that can get a house clean (probably true for me)...why would someone choose you?


 
I think you really answer your own question....."there are 30 guys in your town that can get a house clean ". 

We sell a service. We don't just clean your house/roof/building or whatever. We are worth more than a guy who can clean a house....so we offer a service.



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For those of you running chemical through your booster. Do you have any photos or diagrams of how you plumbed it or set it up? I think this would be an excellent solution to those few times a year I really need more distance from my 12v pump.

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DirtyRoofcom wrote:

For those of you running chemical through your booster. Do you have any photos or diagrams of how you plumbed it or set it up? I think this would be an excellent solution to those few times a year I really need more distance from my 12v pump.


 It's pretty simple but does depend. Are you running a mix tank or a ProPortioner?



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No drama here. We house clean with 12V and rinse with booster and customer's water.
www.advantageroofcleaning.com/customer-story-25/

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SprayWash wrote:

Yes I am using the same pump and hose for application of chemical and for rinsing. Technically it's not a garden hose, it a 1/2 inch Goodyear hose with a psi rating of 250 psi. We dwell chems usually for 10-15 minutes.

On a roof, or delicate landscaping, I'll add a the second pump and another hose for additional rinsing.

Process for a house wash:
1) pull up, stretch hoses, tape plugs, identify problem areas
2) lead guy makes mix while assistant floods landscaping
3) chems applied to 1/2 the house.
4) lead tech has assistant switch valve to water.
5) rinse chemicals off first half.
6) wash second half of house
7) rinse all landscaping again.
8) wrap up
9) repeat steps 1-7 two more Times in a day
10) drink a scotch.


 Ray, So you pull all your rinse water from a tank versus the customer's faucet? What size tank and how often do you need to refill?



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OK, I'll play  biggrin 

 

I d/s with a low volume (3gpm) pump and rinse with garden hose or the 7gpm pump, plus brush if there is dirt, road grime or oxidation to be removed

 

 

 



-- Edited by BlueRidge on Tuesday 14th of March 2017 10:06:01 AM

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Hey John,..why aren't you soaping and rinsing with the 7 GPM machine? Would make your life so much easier if you're going to be DS'ing.

Jeff

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Jeff Wible wrote:

Hey John,..why aren't you soaping and rinsing with the 7 GPM machine? Would make your life so much easier if you're going to be DS'ing.

Jeff


 Good question Jeff - I like the low volume as I find it is easier to control the chemicals.

Most of my jobs are narrow blocks with close neighbours, old houses that leak a lot, very complicated designs, plus many require brushing and I find the lower volume easier to control and has less run-off (I am planning to upgrade to a 3.5 or 4gpm, but the little old Udor just won't die). I also like to use 2 hoses as I'm not happy with how well the chemical line flushes. On many of the older leaky houses I'll use the garden hose for rinsing as the 7 is too hard to control.



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That looks like a lot of work John! We clean a lot of older homes with many different types of siding as well as log homes and have never had any trouble with leakage. We also run into those neighborhoods where the houses are really close and the ability to spray far has helped a lot. Changing the spray pattern plays big in that. We seldom have to touch a brush.



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Hey Brett, not trying to get into the whole brushing vs not brushing,..but if he is doing oxidation removal there isn't much choice but to brush. Some claim two-stepping is effective but I haven't found it to be as effective as brushing the oxidation off,..after the application of a strong solvent like Purple Power or just about any of the gutter cleaners. And removing oxidation provides a superior finished job.

I know many guys provide the service at an extra charge. I don't really even mention the choice anymore,..especially on a dark colored tall house. Many times though on a ranch that is badly oxidized I will price it as a house wash with removing the oxidation set into the price,..and net even verbally mentioned.

Window sills and frames always come out better when gutter cleaner is applied then brushed or Magic Eraser,..they just do,..especially on houses that haven't been done for several years. And gutters are almost always brushed for the best results.


Jeff

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I'm with John 100% we only use 12 volt and rinse with garden hose. I'm going to get a booster pump for rinsing though. I'm thinking about getting a skid made for the new truck. I only use pressure washers for concrete, bus stops and other huge jobs.

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BlueRidge wrote:

That looks like a lot of work John! We clean a lot of older homes with many different types of siding as well as log homes and have never had any trouble with leakage. We also run into those neighborhoods where the houses are really close and the ability to spray far has helped a lot. Changing the spray pattern plays big in that. We seldom have to touch a brush.


Not wrong Narelle, it sure is a lot of work, but the owner knew it had to be done that way (to remove all the dust & oxidation in preparation for painting - I'd only see one vinyl/aluminium clad house a year at most) so was happy to pay. Brushing is one of those things that looks worse when you stand there and think how bad it will be, but if you just get into it it's not that bad.

Leaking is big problem with these old houses; especially the windows, as they open outwards which means the frame allows water to flow to the inside, plus the the foundations move a lot so the rectangular window no longer has a rectangular hole to fit in; the timber boards also flex & warp which makes big gaps to allow water in, and as these places are old there is no insulation/sarking inside, which means that the electricals are exposed. Many of these houses have also been raised & built in underneath, plus extended out the back/side many times over the last 50 - 100 years with various quality & attention to waterproofing.

Cheers



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Jeff Wible wrote:

Hey Brett, not trying to get into the whole brushing vs not brushing,..but if he is doing oxidation removal there isn't much choice but to brush. Some claim two-stepping is effective but I haven't found it to be as effective as brushing the oxidation off,..after the application of a strong solvent like Purple Power or just about any of the gutter cleaners. And removing oxidation provides a superior finished job.

I know many guys provide the service at an extra charge. I don't really even mention the choice anymore,..especially on a dark colored tall house. Many times though on a ranch that is badly oxidized I will price it as a house wash with removing the oxidation set into the price,..and net even verbally mentioned.

Window sills and frames always come out better when gutter cleaner is applied then brushed or Magic Eraser,..they just do,..especially on houses that haven't been done for several years. And gutters are almost always brushed for the best results.


Jeff


 G'day Jeff

Yes, unfortunately oxidation is THE problem, plus dust, and mud-wasps. And road grime

Road Grime

 



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Chris Mozick wrote:

I'm with John 100% we only use 12 volt and rinse with garden hose. I'm going to get a booster pump for rinsing though. I'm thinking about getting a skid made for the new truck. I only use pressure washers for concrete, bus stops and other huge jobs.


 G'day Chris,

I consider the pressure washer just a pump, and different nozzles give me different pressures - of course it is limited by the 3/8" hose & 1/4" lance as opposed to the 1/2" or 5/8" low pressure hose. I like the versatility of the p/washer for rinsing houses as I often need to clean some concrete/pavers/stone/timber while rinsing. Nozzles are cheap, I have about 6 or 7 that I use regularly.

 

Cheers



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Hey John,..wondering what is your choices of products and/or chemicals?

Jeff

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G'day Jeff

We don't get the specialist products over here (well, I can't find them anywayz) so it's read MSDS's and product data sheets....

Like everyone (?) I use bleach (sodium hypochlorite) to kill the mould and a detergent to lift the dirt etc and sometimes some extra detergent for foam.

Vague enough.... the first I add is actually dishwasher powder - it has detergents, some foaming agents plus sequestering agents & rinse aids

http://www.septone.com.au/pdf/msds/Septone%20Dishbrite.pdf

and the other is just a detergent with scent & foam - don't want to use much as it takes too long to rinse

 

 



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Thanks for the info John,..Hey man,..your house wash mix sounds just fine as far as typical mold and dirt goes. Many have used dish liquid to wash houses with for years here,.and I bet some still do. So nothing wrong with that at all.

I would like to give you some recommendations to make the oxidation and grunge removal a bit easier than using only SH/Soap.

Degreaser products work well on oxidation,..look for products with 2-Butoxyethanol,..and Sodium Hydroxide. These chemicals are in products like Purple Power, Castrol Super Clean, and even the cheaper dollar store products like Mean Green.

For the grunge look up 2-stepping like they do on big trucks.

Scrubbing oxidation off and/or removing that grunge that builds up near the top of a house,..(Sometimes all over a house),....is alot easier with more aggressive products.

To stepping in short is the application of an acid and then directly sprayed over with a high alkaline detergent. this reaction really loosens the kind of dirt that seems to be embedded into the siding.

Jeff

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Thanks Jeff, but I'll pass on the acids & caustics etc for washing houses. Any product that can remove ALL the oxidation is going to damage the good paint underneath. The houses I wash are not vinyl or aluminium siding, they are water based acrylic paint on timber and maybe some oil based enamel on the timber window frames, plus leadlights, timber decks, sandstone patios & pool decks, extensions that don't need painting this time, sometimes even raw aluminium window & door frames. I'm not going to take chances on an up to $30,000+ paint job on a $1,000,000+ house. I did read somewhere that on of the US chemical suppliers (possibly Craig H) was working on a product to lift oxidation, but I'm not hopeful.



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