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Post Info TOPIC: Quick connect sizing


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Quick connect sizing
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I have to replace one or two quick connects on my 12V chem hose 1/2" id. The only markings on them is the brand name Legacy. How does one tell whether it's 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2"? I know it's not 1/2" but I thought I throw that size in there as well. I understand everyone uses Hanson as will I, but those puppies are quadruple $$$$ the price. Are they really worth it? 

Thanks  

 

- Roney 

PS, in case anyone is wondering why I have to replace them, it's because only two of my 4-bangers fits anymore, which of course limits my spray pattern options. 



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Don't use quick connects with your 12 volt. They restrict the flow and your pump will burn out

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I use one Hansen 1/4" on my 12volt system (Delevan 5850) just for the 4 banger. Never have issues with restricted flow.

Hank



-- Edited by waxman18324 on Monday 20th of June 2016 04:24:45 PM

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Art O wrote:

Don't use quick connects with your 12 volt. They restrict the flow and your pump will burn out


Art,  let me correct myself, I'm wanting to replace just (one) quick connect, it's the only one (Legacy brand) that came with my 12V unit from The PW Store. It's what "they" provided to use with the 4-banger. I suppose you mean to not use any more than THAT (1)? If you are suggesting I use no QC's than what do you suggest? How do you suggest I use the 4-banger then as mine sounds similar to Hanks setu? 



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waxman18324 wrote:

I use one Hansen 1/4" on my 12volt system (Delevan 5850) just for the 4 banger. Never have issues with restricted flow.

Hank



-- Edited by waxman18324 on Monday 20th of June 2016 04:24:45 PM


 On the gun yes, not by the pump or on the hose



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Roney Conca wrote:
Art O wrote:

Don't use quick connects with your 12 volt. They restrict the flow and your pump will burn out


Art,  let me correct myself, I'm wanting to replace just (one) quick connect, it's the only one (Legacy brand) that came with my 12V unit from The PW Store. It's what "they" provided to use with the 4-banger. I suppose you mean to not use any more than THAT (1)? If you are suggesting I use no QC's than what do you suggest? How do you suggest I use the 4-banger then as mine sounds similar to Hanks setu? 


  On the gun get a 1/4" stainless Hanson quick connect work good.  Always buy the same brand Plugs and cupplers



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Thanks Art, got it. Getting back to the original questions, how do I tell whether it's quarter inch or 3/8 inch, is there a part on the QC that I could measure that would give me that information since there's no other markings except the brand-name ?

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If its on the 4 banger its 1/4" On the hose its 3/8" and we don't use 1/2" very often. If you buy cheap they don't last and make your job harder connecting the plug to the coupler



-- Edited by Art O on Monday 20th of June 2016 06:58:22 PM

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I have the same gun and it's definitely 1/4" Mine was starting to wig out, but I replaced and the o-ring and lubed it with WD40 and it's working great again.

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WD-40 might enlarge or shrink your o-ring. I forgot which it is. Happened once and that was the last time.

Hank

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Bryan P wrote:

I have the same gun and it's definitely 1/4" Mine was starting to wig out, but I replaced and the o-ring and lubed it with WD40 and it's working great again.


 Thanks, Art, Hank, Bryan, et al,  this board is the best! Bryan, I'll be ordering two spare Hanson 1/4" QC's and some o-rings. But are you  saying that all you did was replace your O-ring and sprayed WD-40  and this made the original Legacy QC work again? Btw as we have similar 12V systems, what vertical distance are you gettin? I just want to I really love this unit now that I've got new  clearly legible pro-portioner dial stickers. 



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For the Gun get Stainless, hose brass. Buy a Bag of 3/8" and 1/4" O rings. When a Coupler leaks its the O ring, just so you know

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Roney Conca wrote:
Bryan P wrote:

I have the same gun and it's definitely 1/4" Mine was starting to wig out, but I replaced and the o-ring and lubed it with WD40 and it's working great again.


 Thanks, Art, Hank, Bryan, et al,  this board is the best! Bryan, I'll be ordering two spare Hanson 1/4" QC's and some o-rings. But are you  saying that all you did was replace your O-ring and sprayed WD-40  and this made the original Legacy QC work again? Btw as we have similar 12V systems, what vertical distance are you gettin? I just want to I really love this unit now that I've got new  clearly legible pro-portioner dial stickers. 


Yeah. that fixed it. I didn't spray the o-ring with WD40. I sprayed the bearings on the outside.  The QC gets stiff after roof cleaning.  I've done way more plumbing than I ever thought I would.  When I started up, Art had just done a video "What's in the toolbox?". I watched the video, made a list, and ordered almost everything...even though I didn't even know what some of it was! haha.  Glad to have that stuff, especially the O-rings.  Get one of those o-ring pick sets too. 

BTW, I ordered Hanson couplers, but haven't used them yet.  Won't replace the Legacy ones while they are still working. 

Oh...vertical distance.  I don't know really.  I can get the high gable on most 2 story houses. It's a stretch, especially with wind, but I get them.  Sometimes I use the extension that PWS sent, and I also have a #3 shooter tip.  Might should have gotten the #2.

 



-- Edited by Bryan P on Monday 20th of June 2016 08:19:33 PM

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I've paid somewhere around $16 a piece and I've paid less than $3 a piece (PWS). The less than $3 last longer, work better and I buy them in bulk (like 10 of each at a time). As soon as they start to stick or leak I just replace them.

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In my opinion, If you charge enough for your jobs you don't worry about cost of consumables whether fittings, pumps or soaps. At the very least you should profit enough to replace a pump every 2 jobs if you had to, which you won't.



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Michael Wedge wrote:

In my opinion, If you charge enough for your jobs you don't worry about cost of consumables whether fittings, pumps or soaps. At the very least you should profit enough to replace a pump every 2 jobs if you had to, which you won't.


 Talking about pumps. I cut the pressure switch off my Fat Boy and put a plow solenoid on it. The pump has been going strong all season. Can't kill it and I never rinse it.



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So how are you getting the pump to run in demand mode if you took off the pressure switch?

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Silicone won't damage the prints if you want to lube your quick connects

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Bryan P wrote:

I have the same gun and it's definitely 1/4" Mine was starting to wig out, but I replaced and the o-ring and lubed it with WD40 and it's working great again.


 Use plumbers grease. It's made for O rings. I have switched all the O rings to brown chemical resistant.



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Diamond Roof Cleaning wrote:

So how are you getting the pump to run in demand mode if you took off the pressure switch?


Barry Landis did this album a few years back.



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Bruce took his video down. Why share it with us and all the other forums and take it down?
youtu.be/FeFbgEsgT9M

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BlueRidge wrote:
Bryan P wrote:

I have the same gun and it's definitely 1/4" Mine was starting to wig out, but I replaced and the o-ring and lubed it with WD40 and it's working great again.


 Use plumbers grease. It's made for O rings. I have switched all the O rings to brown chemical resistant.


 Brett, your comment could not possibly be written with fewer words, it is "concise" exactly!



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Brett do you guys mean the relay was switched or the pressure switch?

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Diamond Roof Cleaning wrote:

Brett do you guys mean the relay was switched or the pressure switch?


Mike search "solenoid"



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Mike here some pics.

 

 



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Michael Wedge wrote:

In my opinion, If you charge enough for your jobs you don't worry about cost of consumables whether fittings, pumps or soaps. At the very least you should profit enough to replace a pump every 2 jobs if you had to, which you won't.


 I vote this to be the absolute best answer!



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Diamond Roof Cleaning wrote:

Brett do you guys mean the relay was switched or the pressure switch?


 Good catch Mike. I am running on fumes and posted to a few comments here and was thinking relay/solenoid.



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That's what I thought. You still need a pressure switch.

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Hello all,  it has been a long while since I posted, but I am always dropping in to read and learn. This remains a great forum!  I thought I'd share a small success of mine that might help someone else. I had been changing out stainless QC every other job even after rinsing etc. Mostly bearing issues, but O rings as well I guess.

I bought brass QC and started to use the Red N Tacky grease after a mechanic buddy suggested it. It has rust inhibitors and acts like a barrier to the solution. I pull down the QC and pack the bearings good on the outside and inside, with grease before, during and after the job rinse, coating the inside as well. I am on on the same QC after 12 jobs. I haven't tried it on stainless yet, maybe I'll have even better results  with those. 

Good luck!

V/r Jeff

 

Red "N" Tacky Grease - Lucas Oil

Product Details



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Great post Jeff, WoW! i Have a few new QC' both ss and brass in my shopping cart. Do you guys have any well stocked fairly priced QC's and such, suppliers who also have online presence? If this very informative post is any where close to one of your typical posts good sir, then I'm sure you've been well missed. Welcome back and keep on posting. 



-- Edited by Roney Conca on Tuesday 5th of July 2016 11:32:22 PM

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