Power Washing and Roof Cleaning Forum

You should ask them how much pigment the new stain will have. If it's medium to high pigment I would think A light SH mix. I'm supposed to start a 7,500 sq ft cedar roof Monday. I have some similar questions. I will probably start a separate thread.

Today we are doing this small home in Lehman Township, PA. As John has mentioned we will hit it with approximately 2%, neutralize with oxylic and rinse and then rinse some more.

Hank

Thanks guys. Yes this is a total package. Roof, house, decks, driveway, Big job.

Maverick Contracting wrote:

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I second Brett. The old stain will need hydrox to blend in new stain as the new will take to the more weathered better and not penetrate where there's more old stain and be blotchy.
2nd on the percarb too.

As to the deck, looks like possibly someone attempted a cleaning prior? Either way it will spot and discolor with any process unless cleaned as well. Everywhere your hose is, footprints when stepping on solution etc. No doubt

-- Edited by Maverick Contracting on Friday 3rd of March 2017 06:05:48 PM

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 Yes, we're cleaning everything. I don't think the deck has been cleaned. Looks like that because it was raining the day I was out there taking photos. 

Maverick Contracting wrote:

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I didnt mean someone attempted to clean the deck but the siding however...

Runoff from the building esp acids from metals can clean the areas below. Look at what copper runoff on roofs does. Keeps immediate area below "cleaner", just not CLEAN🙄

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 Gotcha. No, It was raining and that's the dry part under the overhang you're seeing. 

Brian, good luck on the job and please please let us know what techniques you end up using, as well as how it turned out. Thanks.

Jeff Wible wrote:

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BlueRidge wrote:

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When doing cedar that looks like that we prefer to use sodium percarbonate and a little sodium hydroxide. Then pressure wash with a low pressure tip. After the house is clean we apply oxalic acid and rinse. This process gives the absolute best job for staining. Make sure they know cleaning with SH might not do as good of a job as the percarb. I give them what they want but also let them know what their options are. John has some good points concerning the deck.

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 Brett is on point here. This job will come out much better using Sodium Percarbonate with NAOH.  You could even just DS NAOH and neutralize.  The high PH cleaners will darken the Cedar,.don't panic,..the oxalic will bring it right back. Application of a detergent and just "generally" rinsing will not give finished results like on vinyl siding. 

Jeff

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Ahhhhhh........ It's people like you I learned from!

Great thread with a lot of great info!

I should clarify my response. Sodium Percarbonate and NAOH are the way to tackle this type work. My recommendation of DS'ing is factor based. The way the stain looks from here it should come of rather easily,...So DS'ing may work,...but certain parts of the house,.like under the soffit, where the Sun doesn't hit,..may need a stronger solution. So a dedicated application may be needed. This needs to simply be determined by the contractor. Usually if it comes off with a scraping of the finger nail,..it can be DS'ed. At least that's been my experience.

@Maverick,...Yes,.many guys spend alot of time on here,..but look at what they learn to then convey to their helpers,..to make their lives easier.

Jeff

To add...
I would apply the NAOH 1st, rinse, Percarb 2nd, rinse, then Ox (to neutralize both bases and brighten).
Oh and definitely rinse the Oxalic acid before stain.
Extra steps? Not in my book. A little extra time now a lot less chance of stain failure and redo later.

Jeff, that's a good line!😅
(part honesty part sarcastically)
I,m gonna use it either way😉

Maverick Contracting wrote:

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Byron
For me the answer is yes PW if restaining.
This isn't a cosmetic cleaning but a surface prep cleaning. You need to get off the dead weak wood and stain to have good results restaining.
There is a significant difference between softwashing and surface prepping.
It's important to ask potential customers what they are looking to achieve or planning on doing after a cleaning.

Many times I have uneducated customers have their house "washed" either by themselves or another ("help" or contractor) now asking for a "just needs paint" quote. I will not do any work if I don't do the prep first. If the paint fails, I don't want my name associated.

-- Edited by Maverick Contracting on Sunday 5th of March 2017 02:51:57 PM

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 Good points there Maverick!!

Bryan,..you can do as you wish,..but allow me to give you a piece of advice,..take it or leave it. You are the one with the knowledge of how to handle the work properly and accordingly. Washing this siding with a basic SH and soap with rinse isn't gonna yield the results they may be looking for. Unless they are really not very picky.  From here,..that job looks as though it needs sold for what it is. If nothing else at least tell them what they are likely gonna end up with.

The deck and concrete both will need an amount of PSI to get proper results. Decks like this are commonly done with 600-1000 PSI,..along with the proper cleaners. Don't get talked into this type work according to their views.

Concrete,.depending on how bad it is needs pressure of 1500 or more to be finished when you walk away,..GPM makes a big difference in the amount of PSI needed for wood or concrete.

Jeff

-- Edited by Jeff Wible on Sunday 5th of March 2017 05:38:53 PM

Jeff Wible wrote:

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Bryan,..you can do as you wish,..but allow me to give you a piece of advice,..take it or leave it. You are the one with the knowledge of how to handle the work properly and accordingly. Washing this siding with a basic SH and soap with rinse isn't gonna yield the results they may be looking for. Unless they are really not very picky.  From here,..that job looks as though it needs sold for what it is. If nothing else at least tell them what they are likely gonna end up with.

The deck and concrete both will need an amount of PSI to get proper results. Decks like this are commonly done with 600-1000 PSI,..along with the proper cleaners. Don't get talked into this type work according to their views.

Concrete,.depending on how bad it is needs pressure of 1500 or more to be finished when you walk away,..GPM makes a big difference in the amount of PSI needed for wood or concrete.

Jeff

-- Edited by Jeff Wible on Sunday 5th of March 2017 05:38:53 PM

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 Thanks Jeff.  I asked for advice and I do appreciate it.  I've got almost six weeks to come up with a plan. 

Jeff Wible wrote:

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Hey Bryan, you may consider doing a demo for them. And see which they prefer. Demos can be done inconspicuously, it doesn't take a huge area to see what you're gonna get with each method. And then you'll know where you're at with the job. Heck,.I've been doing this for 21 years and I still do test spots on cedar houses, log houses and brick,.. some surfaces can throw you a curve ball. Demo's are very handy when it comes to pricing work.

Jeff

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 I will definitely do that. Gotta wait on them to own the house though. I'm working for the buyers.